Temple Illuminatus2024-03-29T07:57:44ZArachnifaunahttps://templeilluminatus.ning.com/profile/Arachnifaunahttps://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10146838078?profile=RESIZE_48X48&width=48&height=48&crop=1%3A1https://templeilluminatus.ning.com/forum/topic/listForContributor?groupUrl=how-does-your-garden-grow&user=31r21n2ak6dkm&feed=yes&xn_auth=noInspiration for Gardens That Can Stand the Heattag:templeilluminatus.ning.com,2023-08-09:6363372:Topic:36371722023-08-09T18:01:07.602ZArachnifaunahttps://templeilluminatus.ning.com/profile/Arachnifauna
<p class="comp article-subheading" id="article-subheading_1-0"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">As temperatures rise, gardeners need to adapt. Here are some places to start.</span></p>
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<p id="article-subheading_1-0" class="comp article-subheading"><span style="font-size: 14pt;">As temperatures rise, gardeners need to adapt. Here are some places to start.</span></p>
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<div class="mntl-attribution__item-date"><p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">As we continue to break heat records in many different regions around the world, gardeners have to think more than ever about how they can create gardens that can stand the heat.</span></p>
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<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-2" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">Gardening for extreme temperatures is not just about adapting to changing climates. It is about working to mitigate the effects of extreme heat through careful design and through the various different choices we make in a garden.</span></p>
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<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-4" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html"><span style="font-size: 12pt;">As a permaculture designer, understanding how plant choices and design decisions can increase the resilience of a garden in extreme heat is important. I thought I would share a few examples that illustrate some of the strategies that can be used. Perhaps these ideas will give some inspiration to help others beat the heat in their own gardens.</span></p>
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<span id="toc-xeriscaping" class="heading-toc"></span><br />
<h2 id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-6" class="comp mntl-sc-block green-sc-block-heading mntl-sc-block-heading"><span class="mntl-sc-block-heading__text">Xeriscaping</span></h2>
<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-7" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">One major thing that we need to do to create gardens that can stand the heat is to make the right plant choices.</p>
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<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-9" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">Plants that are native to arid or semi-arid settings can often be good choices for high-heat situations as well as just dry ones. Understanding plants is important because this allows us to find ones best suited to particular locations in our particular gardens.</p>
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<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-11" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">In extreme heat, plants lose more water. Some plants have specific adaptations which enable them to hold onto water more effectively during hot conditions.</p>
<div id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-12" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-adslot mntl-block"> </div>
<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-13" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">Regardless of water availability, heat tolerance is another plant characteristic. Some plants can cope with heat better than others. So while in temperate climates, we may be more familiar with plant hardiness in winter, we also increasingly have to look at hardiness against summer heat too.</p>
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<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-15" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">Often, we can use native plants, as these are best adapted to the conditions found in a particular location. But sometimes, as our climates warm, we might turn to native plants or regions historically a little warmer than our own.</p>
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<span id="toc-closed-loop-aquaponics" class="heading-toc"></span><br />
<h2 id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-17" class="comp mntl-sc-block green-sc-block-heading mntl-sc-block-heading"><span class="mntl-sc-block-heading__text">Closed-Loop Aquaponics</span></h2>
<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-19" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">Another way that we might go to create gardens that can stand the heat is in a direction that allows us to decouple somewhat from the conditions.</p>
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<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-21" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html"><a href="https://www.treehugger.com/lessons-learned-polytunnel-gardening-5207539">Growing under cover</a> allows us to have more control over the environmental conditions, and we might even think about creating a <a href="https://www.treehugger.com/what-is-aquaponics-5187255">closed-loop aquaponics system</a> to produce food in more controlled conditions when the weather is hot outside.</p>
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<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-23" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">In a well-ventilated space with a well-designed water-based growing system, it is potentially possible to grow a lot of food, even in areas where extreme heat would typically make this a serious challenge.</p>
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<h2 id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-25" class="comp mntl-sc-block green-sc-block-heading mntl-sc-block-heading"><span class="mntl-sc-block-heading__text">Soil-Building Success</span></h2>
<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-26" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">Of course, you do not need to de-couple from the environment to create a garden that can withstand the heat. Often, working with nature can be just as effective for food production and other sorts of gardening.</p>
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<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-28" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">One important thing to remember as you strive to create a resilient garden is that <a href="https://www.treehugger.com/do-not-underestimate-importance-soil-garden-5223181">everything comes back to the soil.</a> With healthy soil, we have healthy plants and, when those plants are eaten, healthy animals, including people.</p>
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<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-30" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">Understanding and improving the soil through keeping a living root in the soil for as much of the time as possible, avoiding tilling or digging, and using organic matter as mulches, are all important in creating a garden that can withstand heat waves in summer.</p>
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<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-32" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">No dig gardens such as lasagna beds or hugelkultur mounds, humus-rich planting basins in rain gardens, waffle gardens, and more—plus all sorts of raised, mulched beds can help us to create gardens that can cope when high temperatures arise.</p>
<h2 id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-36" class="comp mntl-sc-block green-sc-block-heading mntl-sc-block-heading"><span class="mntl-sc-block-heading__text">Shaded Vegetable Garden</span></h2>
<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-38" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">Creating shade for key growing areas during the hottest parts of the year can be important. While, most of the time, in most temperate climate regions, full sunlight is required and desired for annual food production, it is important to remember that shade can often be beneficial in heat waves or in the hottest regions.</p>
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<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-40" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">We can create shade in simple, obvious ways, such as using shade netting erected over frameworks over a vegetable garden area. We might also use a pergola or other structure covered with climbing plants, either annual or perennial, that offer the shade we need.</p>
<h2 id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-44" class="comp mntl-sc-block green-sc-block-heading mntl-sc-block-heading"><span class="mntl-sc-block-heading__text">Forest Gardens</span></h2>
<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-45" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">However, the best ways to create shade for hot summer conditions do not involve construction but rather careful and considered planting. Forest gardens can be all about creating shade where it is beneficial while creating sunny, open areas where it is less so and combining plants carefully, in layers, in the most effective ways.</p>
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<p id="mntl-sc-block_1-0-47" class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">A well-designed forest garden should be more resilient than other systems due to its symbiosis and biodiversity. It should be able to withstand the heat, and whatever other conditions come its way once it is properly established.</p>
<p class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html">These ideas are just some of the many different strategies that we can employ in our gardens to cope with the more frequent high temperatures that come our way.</p>
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<p class="comp mntl-sc-block mntl-sc-block-html"><a href="https://www.treehugger.com/inspiration-gardens-that-can-stand-heat-7571514">https://www.treehugger.com/inspiration-gardens-that-can-stand-heat-7571514</a></p>
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</div> Pumpkin Planting & Growingtag:templeilluminatus.ning.com,2023-05-31:6363372:Topic:36358532023-05-31T16:35:30.296ZArachnifaunahttps://templeilluminatus.ning.com/profile/Arachnifauna
<div class="Author_Line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantuid"><div class="block__content"><span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/author/catherine-boeckmann" hreflang="en">Catherine Boeckmann</a></span></div>
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<div class="date_line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantchanged"><div class="block__content"><div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item">May 25, 2023…</div>
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<div class="Author_Line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantuid"><div class="block__content"><span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/author/catherine-boeckmann" hreflang="en">Catherine Boeckmann</a></span></div>
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<div class="date_line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantchanged"><div class="block__content"><div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item">May 25, 2023</div>
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<div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Whether you use them for carving or cooking, pumpkins do not disappoint—if you have the space for them. Learn how to harvest, cure, and store this nutritious, delicious American native!</p>
<h3>About Pumpkins</h3>
<p>Did you know pumpkins have been grown in North America for almost 5,000 years? It’s a lot of fun to grow this native plant.</p>
<p>There are two requirements for growing this winter squash: 1) Having the space to grow them [ideally 1,000 square feet per plant for giant types, 50 to 100 square feet for regular-size varieties, and about 15 to 36 square feet for miniature types] and 2) having a long growing season [generally 75 to 100 frost-free days]. Growers in northern locations need to plant by late May; in southern states, plant by early July. </p>
<p>Pumpkins do require a lot of nourishment. That said, pumpkins are easy to maintain.</p>
<p><span>PLANTING</span></p>
<p>Pumpkins are heavy feeders! It’s important to mix aged manure and/or compost into the soil. Learn more about <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/preparing-soil-planting">preparing the soil for planting</a>. </p>
<h4>When to Plant Pumpkins</h4>
<p>Pumpkins are sensitive to the cold. Do not sow seeds directly until<span> </span><strong>well after<span> </span></strong>the danger of frost is past and the soil has thoroughly warmed to a temperature between 65° and 95°F (18° to 35°C). <a href="https://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-calendar">See your Planting Calendar by zip code</a>.</p>
<ul>
<li>Where the growing season is very short, start by sowing indoors in peat pots, 2 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost. Then harden off seedlings before transplanting into warm, aged manure/compost-enriched soil.</li>
<li>Want pumpkins in time for Halloween? Plant in the North from late May and in the extreme South from early July. Look at the seed packet for how many days to harvest. Count backward from a week or so before Halloween. Don’t plant too early or they’re rot!</li>
</ul>
<h4>How to Plant Pumpkins</h4>
<ul>
<li>Vining pumpkins require a minimum of 50 to 100 square feet per hill. If you are short on space, make sure the vines are directed to the outer edge of the garden bed.</li>
<li>Sow seeds either in rows 8 feet apart or plant in hills 4 feet apart.<span> </span><span>A hill does not mean the soil has to be mounded; it’s a spot containing a group of plants or seeds. </span>Hills warm soil quickly (so seeds germinate faster) and aid with drainage and pest control. Prepare hills by digging down 12 to 15 inches and mixing/filling in with lots of aged manure and/or compost.</li>
<li>In rows, sow seeds 6 to 12 inches apart. Once seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin to one plant every 18 to 36 inches.</li>
<li>In hills, set seeds 1 inch deep with 4 or 5 seeds per hill. Keep seeds moist until germination. When seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin to two or three plants per hill by snipping out unwanted plants.</li>
</ul>
<p>Plant miniature varieties one inch deep, with two or three seeds every 2 feet in the row. Rows should be 6 to 8 feet apart, with seedlings thinned to the best plant every 2 feet when they have their first true leaves.</p>
<p><span><strong>In this video, Ben shows us his method for growing pumpkins!</strong></span></p>
<p><span><iframe width="755" height="425" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/PNJVDJd05Yk?wmode=opaque" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
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<div class="field__label">GROWING</div>
<div class="field__item"><ul>
<li>Use<span> </span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/video/how-make-row-cover-tunnel">row covers</a><span> </span>to protect plants early in the season and to prevent insect problems. However, remember to remove covers before flowering to allow pollination.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/native-bees-best-pollinators-your-garden">Bees</a><span> </span>are essential for pollination, so be mindful when using insecticides to kill bugs or fungicides to control fungus. If you must use it, apply only in the late afternoon or early evening, when blossoms are closed for the day. To attract more bees, try placing a<span> </span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/bee-houses-solitary-bees">bee house</a><span> </span>in your garden. Or, grow colorful flowers near the patch. </li>
<li>Pumpkins need 1 inch of water per week. Water deeply, in the morning and on very hot afternoons, especially during fruit set. Avoid watering foliage and fruit unless it’s a sunny day. Dampness invites rot and disease.</li>
<li>Add<span> </span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/mulching-guide-benefits-mulch">mulch</a><span> </span>around your pumpkins to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and discourage pests.</li>
<li>Weed gently; pumpkins have shallow roots that can be easily damaged. Also, take care not to damage the delicate vines; the quality of the fruit depends on them.</li>
<li>Side-dress with aged manure or compost mixed with water. </li>
<li>Small vine varieties can be trained to grow up a <a href="https://www.almanac.com/video/how-build-trellis-and-supports-climbing-vegetables">trellis</a>. Larger varieties can be trained upward, too, to support the fruit, usually with netting or old stockings.</li>
<li>Pumpkins are heavy feeders. Side-dress with aged manure or compost mixed with water. When plants are about 1 foot tall, just before vines begin to run, fertilize regularly with a high-nitrogen formula. Just before the blooming period, switch to a high-phosphorus formula fertilizer.</li>
<li>If your first flowers aren’t forming fruits, that’s normal. Both male and female blossoms need to open. Be patient.</li>
</ul>
<h4>How to Grow a Bigger Pumpkin</h4>
<ul>
<li>After a few pumpkins have formed, pinch off the fuzzy ends of each vine to stop vine growth and focus plant energy on the fruit.</li>
<li>Pruning the vines may help with space and fruit formation. Pumpkins produce main vines (from the base/center of the plant), secondary vines from the main ones, and tertiary vines from the secondary vines. All may have flowers. Once the fruit has started to develop, prune the main and secondary vines to 10 to 15 feet and remove the tertiary vines, if desired. Bury the cut tips in soil.</li>
<li>Or, gardeners who are looking for a “prize for size” pumpkin might select the 2 or 3 prime candidates and remove all other fruit and vines.</li>
<li>As the fruit develops, turn them—with great care not to hurt the vine or stem—to encourage an even shape. Slip a thin board or stone or piece of plastic mesh under pumpkins to protect them from rotting on the soil.</li>
<li>To grow a giant pumpkin, try ‘Dill’s Atlantic Giant’ jumbo variety. Fruit can grow to 200 pounds on 25-foot vines. Plants need 130 to 160 days to mature, so start seedlings indoors, then thin to the best 1 or 2 to plants. </li>
<li>Feed heavily and cultivate shallowly.</li>
<li>Remove the first two or three female flowers to generate more leaf surface before a plant sets fruit.</li>
<li>Allow one fruit to develop. Remove all other female flowers.</li>
<li>Take care that the vine does not root down near the joints to avoid breakage.</li>
</ul>
<p><span>RECOMMENDED VARIETIES</span></p>
<p>Every pumpkin has a best purpose. When it comes to choosing a pumpkin, think about what you want to do with it. All pumpkins are technically edible, but ornamentals are better for carving, and other pumpkins are best for cooking.</p>
<p><strong>Miniature Pumpkins</strong></p>
<p>Miniature pumpkins are very productive and easy to grow, sometimes producing up to a dozen fruits per plant.</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>‘Jack Be Little’</strong>, a miniature variety, is dual purpose. Store-bought shiny (painted) ones make an ideal decoration for a holiday table. Remove the seeds from farm- or home-grown specimens and then bake them for a tiny treat. Vine variety. Days to maturity: 90 to 100 days.</li>
<li><strong>‘We-B-Little’</strong><span> </span>is an All-America Selection winner, and ‘Munchkin’ is another great miniature pumpkin.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Pumpkins for carving</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>‘Autumn Gold’<span> </span></strong>is great for carving and decorating. All-America Selection winner. Vine variety. Excellent for Jack-o-Lanterns. Days to maturity are generally 100 to 120 days.</li>
<li>The larger<span> </span><strong>‘Magic Lantern’</strong><span> </span>and<span> </span><strong>‘Merlin’<span> </span></strong>are great for carving and decorating.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Giant pumpkins</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>‘Dill’s Atlantic Giant’</strong><span> </span>jumbo variety can grow to 200 pounds. Great for those who want to grow a giant pumpkin. Vines will spread to 25 feet, so space is a must. Days to maturity are 130 to 160 days, so plant early! Thin to the best one or two plants. Feed heavily but keep cultivation shallow. Remove first 2 or 3 female flowers after the plants start to bloom so that the plants grow larger with more leaf surface before setting fruit. Allow a single fruit to develop and pick off all female flowers that develop after this fruit has set on the plant. Take care that the vine doesn’t root down near the joints to avoid breakage.</li>
<li><strong>‘Big Max’</strong>,<span> </span><strong>‘Big Moon’</strong>,<span> </span><strong>‘Jack O’ Lantern’</strong>, and<span> </span><strong>‘Funny Face’</strong><span> </span>are some of the best giant pumpkins for carving.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Perfect pumpkins for pies</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>‘Sugar Treat’</strong> is excellent for cooking and baking. Days to maturity are generally 100 to 120 days.<span> </span><strong>‘Hijinks’</strong><span> </span>and<span> </span><strong>‘Baby Bear’</strong><span> </span>are both All-America Selection winners and have sweet flesh for pumpkin pie.</li>
<li><strong>‘Cinderella’s Carriage’<span> </span></strong>is also perfect for pies or soups.</li>
<li><strong>‘Peanut Pumpkin’<span> </span></strong>also produces very sweet flesh and can be great in pumpkin pie or pumpkin puree. </li>
</ul>
<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield__recommended"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field__recommended field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__item"><p><strong>Colorful decorative pumpkins</strong></p>
<ul>
<li><strong>‘Jarrahdale’</strong><span> </span>has blue-green skin and makes for great decorations.</li>
<li><strong>‘Pepitas Pumpkin’</strong><span> </span>is orange and green.</li>
<li><strong>‘Super Moon’</strong><span> </span>is a large white pumpkin.</li>
</ul>
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<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-harvest"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-harvest field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">HARVESTING</div>
<div class="field__item"><p>Your best bet is to harvest pumpkins when they are fully mature—and not before. They will keep best this way. Do not pick pumpkins off the vine because they have reached your desired size. (If you want small pumpkins, grow a small variety.)</p>
<ul>
<li>Harvest on a dry day after the plants have died back and the skins are hard.</li>
<li>The skin of a ripening pumpkin turns a deep, solid color (orange for most varieties), and the stem hardens. </li>
<li>Thump the pumpkin with a finger; the rind will feel hard and sound hollow. Press a fingernail into the pumpkin’s skin; if it resists puncture, it is ripe.</li>
<li><span>Carefully cut the fruit off the vine with a sharp knife or pruners; do not tear it. Be sure not to cut too close to the pumpkin. Leave 3 to 4 inches of stem to increase its keeping time. </span></li>
<li>Handle pumpkins very gently, or they may bruise. Never carry a pumpkin by its stem.</li>
</ul>
<h4>How to Cure, Store, and Display Pumpkins</h4>
<ul>
<li>To toughen the skin and intensify flavor, cure pumpkins in a sunny spot for about 10 days in an area that is 80º to 85º F, with 80 to 85% humidity. This is a great time to display your pumpkin on the front porch! If you’re carving a pumpkin, carve no more than 3 days before Halloween or the pumpkin will begin to rot. </li>
<li>After curing, store pumpkins in a cool, dry cellar or<span> </span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/how-build-root-cellar">root cellar</a> or the like at 50º to 55ºF for 2 to 3 months.</li>
<li>Properly saved seeds should last for 6 years.</li>
</ul>
<p>Check out<span> </span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/video/how-grow-cure-and-store-pumpkins">this video for tips on curing and storing pumpkins</a>.</p>
<p></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/pumpkins">https://www.almanac.com/plant/pumpkins</a></p>
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</div> Growing Potatoes in Containerstag:templeilluminatus.ning.com,2023-05-21:6363372:Topic:36354132023-05-21T14:31:15.637ZArachnifaunahttps://templeilluminatus.ning.com/profile/Arachnifauna
<div class="Author_Line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodebloguid"><div class="block__content"><span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/author/robin-sweetser" hreflang="en">Robin Sweetser</a></span></div>
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<div class="date_line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeblogchanged"><div class="block__content"><div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item">April 21, 2023…</div>
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<div class="Author_Line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodebloguid"><div class="block__content"><span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/author/robin-sweetser" hreflang="en">Robin Sweetser</a></span></div>
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<div class="date_line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeblogchanged"><div class="block__content"><div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item">April 21, 2023</div>
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<div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Potatoes can take up quite a bit of space in your garden. One solution is to grow potatoes in containers! Gardeners have had success growing spuds in everything from trash cans to burlap bags. Learn how to plant potatoes in pots and, importantly, how to harvest these tasty little treasures!</p>
<p>You can start growing potatoes in pots in early spring! Wait at least two weeks after the last spring frost in your area.<span> </span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates">See the Almanac’s Frost Calculator</a>.</p>
<h3>Start With Seed Potatoes</h3>
<p>If you have never tried growing your own potatoes, nothing could be easier. Pick up some certified seed potatoes at your local garden center. (Seed potatoes are not seeds; they are very small potatoes used to grow potato plants.)</p>
<p>They have many colors and types of potatoes to choose from. Many container gardeners do tend to prefer small “new” potatoes in pots versus large russet types.</p>
<p>Potato varieties are also distinguished from one another by how soon they are ready for harvest. Early varieties are good because you get your rewards sooner but late varieties will produce higher yields if properly cared for. </p>
<h3>Planting Grocery Store Potatoes</h3>
<p>If you aren’t fussy about type of potato and have some in your kitchen that are sprouting in their bag, they can be planted. Many folks say to avoid grocery store potatoes, but we’ve grown some excellent crops of potatoes from grocery store spuds. There is a greater chance of disease since they aren’t certified to be free of pathogens. Plant the whole potato if it is small or cut them into pieces with at least two “eyes” in each one. </p>
<h3>Preparing the Seed Potatoes for Planting</h3>
<p>A week or two before planting, spread your seed potatoes out, one layer deep, in an open box placed in a warm bright spot to green up and begin to sprout. This encourages the development of short strong sprouts that are not easily broken off. </p>
<h3>Chitting Your Seed Potatoes</h3>
<p>For really good results try a process known as chitting a day or two in advance. This is the process of dividing (larger) seed potatoes into smaller pieces to create more plants! As long as there is at least one “eye” in your potato (the dimpled area with the bud), this will work. The sprouts that will form the stems of your plants will grow from these eyes. We chit 24 to 48 hours in advance to allow the cut pieces to dry and avoid rotting.</p>
<h3>Types of Containers for Potatoes</h3>
<p>Any large container can be used for growing potatoes as long as it has good drainage and opaque (and doesn’t let light through). Trash cans are great, especially ones on wheels. Just be sure to drill lots of drainage holes in the bottom and a few inches up the sides. See our humorous<span> </span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/video/growing-potatoes-trash-can">video showing out editor planting potatoes in a trash can</a>!</p>
<p>The container needs to be at least 14 inches deep with a 10 to 15 gallon capacity. Avoiding getting much larger as it gets difficult to water evenly. You’ll need five gallons of soil volume for each plant. If your container has a diameter of 20 inches, you can assume 4 plants. </p>
<p>Below are grow bags being marketed specifically for growing potatoes; they’re a little pricey but you can create a similar thing from a plastic “burlap” bag or by using landscape fabric to form a container. </p>
<p>Some folks grow successfully in old tires adding a new tire to the tower as the plants grow. Just beware that tires can leach undesirable chemicals into the soil. Some folks line the tires to avoid this issue.</p>
<h3>How to Fill Containers</h3>
<p>To fill your container, you’ll want to use half “soilless” potting mix and half well-rotted compost to enrich the soil. You can find bags at garden centers. Never use fresh manure.</p>
<p>Also, if you’re not planting in the ground, do<span> </span><span class="caps">NOT</span><span> </span>use soil. It compacts in a container, doesn’t drain well, causes rotting, and often carries weed seeds or disease. Potting mix retains moisture but also drains well; compost adds fertility. </p>
<h3>How to Plant Container Potatoes</h3>
<p>Position your potato pots where they will get 6 to 8 hours of sunshine a day. </p>
<ol>
<li>Fill your container with 4 to 6 inches of soil. Potatoes prefer a slightly acid soil so leave out the lime, which encourages scab. </li>
<li>Plant each piece and cover with another 2 inches of soil. </li>
<li>Plant pieces 5 to 6 inches apart and 3 to 4 inches away from the sides of the container. </li>
<li>As the plants grow, gently add soil around the base of the plants; it is okay to cover some of the leaves as long as the top 2/3 or so of the plant still sticks out of the soil.</li>
</ol>
<p><span>It is important to keep the stems of the plant covered as they grow because your potatoes grow on short runners which are called stolons that are formed on the sides of the underground stalk. The longer the stalk the more potatoes you’ll get, especially if you are growing a late season variety. If you are using a really big container like a trash can you can substitute shredded paper, peat moss, or straw for some of the soil to lighten things up; this is important if you are growing on a deck or balcony. </span></p>
<h3>How to Feed and Water Container Potatoes</h3>
<p>Fertilize the plants with diluted fish emulsion every two weeks or so. Stay away from high nitrogen fertilizers that will encourage leafy growth instead of potato formation. </p>
<p>Water whenever the top 1 to 2 inches of potting soil feels dry to the touch, and apply enough water for some to escape out of the bottom drainage holes. The aim is for “moist,” not soggy.</p>
<h3>When to Harvest Potatoes in Containers</h3>
<p>If you can easily dig around the plants without disturbing the roots too much you can pick some of these small new potatoes to eat. They’re tender and delicious!</p>
<p>Or, wait until the tops of the plants completely die down in the fall to harvest the full crop. Or harvest after the first frost in the fall. </p>
<p>If you wish, you can gently tip the entire container or trash can onto a tarp, then gently sift through and unearth those treasures. Do this in a shady area as tubers should not be exposed to light. Don’t be too rough; potatoes can bruise. </p>
<p>Also, do not wash your potatoes until you are ready to eat them or you risk rot. Just brush off most of the soil before storing in a dark, cool place such as a basement or root cellar. </p>
<p>For a minimum amount of effort you can treat your family to the gourmet delight of home-grown potatoes. Their flavor and texture is far superior to store-bought spuds.</p>
<p>See the Almanac’s complete<span> </span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/potatoes">Guide to Growing Potatoes</a><span> </span>if you have more questions.</p>
<p></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.almanac.com/growing-potatoes-containers">https://www.almanac.com/growing-potatoes-containers</a></p>
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</div> How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Sunflowerstag:templeilluminatus.ning.com,2023-05-08:6363372:Topic:36341942023-05-08T16:22:46.500ZArachnifaunahttps://templeilluminatus.ning.com/profile/Arachnifauna
<p><a href="https://www.almanac.com/author/catherine-boeckmann" hreflang="en">Catherine Boeckmann</a></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11072935052?profile=RESIZE_584x" target="_self"><img class="align-full" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11072935052?profile=RESIZE_584x" width="564"></img></a></p>
<p>With bright blooms that go all summer, sunflowers are heat-tolerant, resistant to pests, and attractive to pollinators. They make beautiful cut flowers and their seeds are a source of food for birds and people! Learn how to plant, grow, and…</p>
<p><a href="https://www.almanac.com/author/catherine-boeckmann" hreflang="en">Catherine Boeckmann</a></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11072935052?profile=RESIZE_584x" target="_self"><img class="align-full" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11072935052?profile=RESIZE_584x" width="564"/></a></p>
<p>With bright blooms that go all summer, sunflowers are heat-tolerant, resistant to pests, and attractive to pollinators. They make beautiful cut flowers and their seeds are a source of food for birds and people! Learn how to plant, grow, and harvest sunflowers.</p>
<h3>About Sunflowers</h3>
<p>The sunflower (<em>Helianthus annuus</em>) is an annual plant with a large daisy-like flower face. Its scientific name comes from the Greek words <em>helios</em> (“sun”) and <em>anthos</em> (“flower”). The flowers come in many colors (yellow, red, orange, maroon, brown), but they are commonly bright yellow with brown centers that ripen into heavy heads filled with seeds. </p>
<p>Sunflowers are heliotropic, which means that they turn their flowers to follow the movement of the Sun across the sky east to west, and then returns at night to face the east, ready again for the morning sun. Heliotropism happens during the earlier stages before the flower grows heavy with seeds.</p>
<p>There are tons of varieties of sunflowers available today, so there’s bound to be one that fits your garden. Choose between those with branching stems or single stems, those that produce ample pollen for pollinators or are pollen-free (best for bouquets), those that stay small or tower above the rest of the garden, or those that produce edible seeds! Learn more about why <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/sunflowers-smiling-faces-sunny-places">you should start growing these happy flowers</a> in your garden.</p>
<blockquote><p><em>Here and yonder, high and low,</em> <br/> <em>Goldenrod and sunflowers glow.</em> <br/> –Robert Kelley Weeks (1840–76)</p>
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<h3>How Long Do Sunflowers Take to Bloom?</h3>
<p>A fairly fast-growing flower for their size, most sunflower varieties mature in only 80 to 95 days. The largest sunflower varieties grow to over 16 feet in height, while smaller varieties have been developed for small spaces and containers and rarely grow larger than a foot tall! The flower heads can reach over 12 inches in diameter within the large seeded varieties.</p>
<p>First and foremost, find a sunny spot! Sunflowers grow best in locations with direct sunlight (6 to 8 hours per day); they require long, warm summers to flower well.</p>
<p>Choose a location with well-draining soil. The planting spot shouldn’t pool with water after it rains. Otherwise, sunflowers aren’t too picky about soil, but for the best results, it shouldn’t be too compacted. They have long tap roots that need to stretch out; in preparing a bed, dig down 2 feet in depth and about 3 feet across.They’re not too fussy when it comes to soil pH either. Sunflowers thrive in slightly acidic to somewhat alkaline soil (pH 6.0 to 7.5).</p>
<p>Sunflowers are heavy feeders, however, so the soil needs to be nutrient-rich with organic matter or composted (aged) manure. Or, work in a slow release granular fertilizer 8 inches deep into your soil.</p>
<p>If possible, plant sunflowers in a spot that is sheltered from strong winds, perhaps along a fence or near a building. Larger varieties may become top-heavy and a strong wind can be devastating.</p>
<p>Before choosing a planting site, decide whether or not you want to grow a <a href="https://www.almanac.com/blog/everything-almanac-blog/june-monthly-grow-sunflower-tower">sunflower tower</a>—a fun project for kids!</p>
<h4>When to Plant Sunflowers</h4>
<ul>
<li>It’s best to sow sunflower seeds directly into the garden (or outdoor containers) after the danger of spring <a href="https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates">frost</a> has passed anytime after soils have warmed to at least 50°F (10°C).</li>
<li>In the northern half of the <span class="caps">U.S.</span> and in Canada, this will fall between April and mid-June. In the South, this will probably occur in mid-March or early April. </li>
<li>Sunflowers dislike having their roots disturbed, which is why we recommend direct-sowing instead of transplanting.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Planting Sunflower Seeds</h4>
<ul>
<li>Sunflowers should be planted 1 to 1½ inches deep and about 6 inches apart after the soil has thoroughly warmed. If you wish, you can plant multiple seeds and thin them to the strongest contenders when the plants are six inches tall. </li>
<li>Give plants plenty of room, especially for low-growing varieties that will branch out. Make rows about 30 inches apart. (For very small varieties, plant closer together.)</li>
<li>A light application of fertilizer mixed in at planting time will encourage strong root growth to protect them from blowing over in the wind.</li>
<li>Experiment with plantings staggered over 5 to 6 weeks to keep enjoying continuous blooms.</li>
<li>If you see birds scratching around for the seeds, spread netting over the planted area until seeds germinate. See more ways to <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/how-keep-birds-away-your-garden">keep birds away from your garden</a>.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Check out this video to learn how to plant sunflowers:</strong></p>
<p><strong><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vqd5WhXa81M?wmode=opaque" width="755" height="425" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
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<div class="field__label">GROWING</div>
<div class="field__item"><ul>
<li>While the plant is small, water around the roots, about 3 to 4 inches from the plant. To protect the plant, it may help to put snail or slug bait around the stem.</li>
<li>Once the plant is established, water deeply though infrequently to encourage deep rooting. Unless the weather is exceptionally wet or dry, water once a week with several gallons of water.</li>
<li>Feed plants only sparingly; overfertilization can cause stems to break in the fall. You can add diluted fertilizer into the water, though avoid getting the fertilizer near the plant’s base; it may help to build a moat in a circle around the plant about 18 inches out.</li>
<li>Tall species and cultivars require support. Bamboo stakes are a good choice for any plant that has a strong, single stem and needs support for a short period of time.</li>
</ul>
<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield__recommended"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field__recommended field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">RECOMMENDED VARIETIES</div>
<div class="field__item"><p>Everyone is familiar with those huge sunflowers that grow on towering eight-foot-tall stalks. But did you know that some varieties top off at a modest 15 inches? Sunflowers are a diverse bunch!</p>
<ul>
<li>The towering ‘<strong>Mammoth</strong>’ variety is the traditional giant sunflower, sometimes growing to more than 12 feet tall. Its seeds are excellent for snacks and for feeding the birds, too.</li>
<li>’<strong>Autumn Beauty</strong>’: One of the most spectacular cultivars, the ‘Autumn Beauty’ has many 6-inch flowers in shades of yellow, bronze, and mahogany on branching stems up to 7 feet tall.</li>
<li>’<strong>Sunrich Gold</strong>’: A great flower for bouquets and arrangements, this sunflower grows to be about 5 feet tall and produces a single 4- to 6-inch flower. The big, no-mess, pollenless flowers have rich, golden-yellow rays and green-yellow centers.</li>
<li>’<strong>Teddy Bear</strong>’: Just 2 to 3 feet tall, this small sunflower is perfect for small gardens and containers. The fluffy, deep-gold, 5-inch blossoms last for days in a vase.</li>
</ul>
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<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-harvest"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-harvest field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">HARVESTING</div>
<div class="field__item"><h4>Cutting Sunflowers for Bouquets</h4>
<ul>
<li>For indoor bouquets, cut the main stem just before its flower bud has a chance to open to encourage side blooms.</li>
<li>Cut stems early in the morning. Harvesting flowers during middle of the day may lead to flower wilting.</li>
<li>Handle sunflowers gently. The flowers should last at least a week in water at room temperature.</li>
<li>Arrange sunflowers in tall containers that provide good support for their heavy heads, and change the water every day to keep them fresh.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Harvesting Sunflower Seeds</h4>
<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-harvest"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-harvest field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__item"><p>At the end of the season, harvest sunflower seeds for a tasty snack and or to replant or to feed the birds in the winter! <a href="https://www.almanac.com/harvesting-sunflower-seeds">Read all about harvesting sunflowers here</a>.</p>
<ul>
<li>Let the flower dry on or off the stem until the back of the head turns brown, the foliage turns yellow, the petals die down, and the seeds look plump and somewhat loose.</li>
<li>With sharp scissors or pruners, cut the head off the plant (about 6 inches below the flower head). Place in a container to catch loose seeds.</li>
<li>Lie the sunflower head on a flat, clean surface and grab a bowl to hold the seeds.</li>
<li>To remove the seeds, simply rub your hand over the seeded area and pull them off the plant or you can use a fork. Another way to remove them is to rub the head of the sunflower across an old washboard or something similar. Just grip the head and rub it across the board as if you were washing clothes.</li>
<li>If you are going to harvest the seeds for roasting, you can cover the flowers with a light fabric (such as cheesecloth) and a rubber band to protect the heads from the birds.</li>
<li>Alternatively, you can cut the flower head early and hang the heads upside down until the seeds are dry; hang indoors or in a place that’s safe from birds and mice.</li>
<li>Rinse sunflower seeds before laying out to dry for several hours or overnight. </li>
<li>If you’re saving seeds to replant, store them in an airtight container in a cool, dry place until you are ready to plant. </li>
</ul>
<p>Learn how to roast seeds in the cooking notes below.</p>
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<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-wit-and-wisdom"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-wit-and-wisdom field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">WIT AND WISDOM</div>
<div class="field__item"><ul>
<li>Some people call sunflowers the “fourth sister,” in reference to the <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/three-sisters-corn-bean-and-squash">Three Sisters</a>: corn, beans, and squash.</li>
<li>Some cultures see sunflowers as a symbol of courage.</li>
<li>Sunflowers were not only used for cooking by Native Americans, but also for healing (the oil was used to cure skin ailments) and making clothing (yellow dye was made from the flower petals and black or blue dye from the seeds).</li>
<li>Need a bird feeder? Save whole, dry sunflower heads and set them out in winter. Birds will gladly pick at the delicious seeds!</li>
<li>Save thick sunflower stems and dry them for winter kindling.</li>
<li>An anonymous buyer paid over $39 million in 1987 for Vincent van Gogh’s <em>Sunflowers</em>.</li>
<li>The tallest sunflower ever recorded was grown in Germany in 2014. It measured in at a stunning 30 feet and 1 inch tall!</li>
<li>Kansas is “The Sunflower State.”</li>
</ul>
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<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-pests"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-pests field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">PESTS/DISEASES</div>
<div class="field__item"><ul>
<li><a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/how-keep-birds-out-garden"><strong>Birds</strong></a> and <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/squirrels"><strong>squirrels</strong></a> will show interest in the seeds. If you plan to use the seeds, deter critters with barrier devices. As seed heads mature and flowers droop, you can cover each one with white polyspun garden fleece.</li>
<li>If you have <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/deer"><strong>deer</strong></a>, keep them at bay with a tall wire barrier. Curious deer may bite the heads off of young sunflowers.</li>
<li>Sunflowers are relatively insect-free. A small gray moth sometimes lays its eggs in the blossoms. Pick the worms from the plants.</li>
<li><strong>Downy mildew</strong>, <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/rust"><strong>rust</strong></a>, and <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/powdery-mildew-0"><strong>powdery mildew</strong></a> can also affect the plants. If fungal diseases are spotted early, spray with a general garden fungicide.</li>
</ul>
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<div class="block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-cooking-notes"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-cooking-notes field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">COOKING NOTES</div>
<div class="field__item"><p>Just one ounce of sunflower seeds contains about 6 grams of protein and 14 grams of oils. The fats are almost entirely unsaturated with 9g of polyunsaturated and 3g of monounsaturated fats per ounce (<span class="caps">NSA</span>). The oil is high in linoleic acid and is a good source of vitamin E.</p>
<ul>
<li>Some varieties produce small black seeds that are used in cooking oil, margarine, cosmetics, and animal feed; they are the best sunflower seeds for attracting the greatest variety of songbirds.</li>
<li>The bigger, striped seeds are grown for snacking and as an ingredient in bread and health foods. They, too, are used for feeding birds, especially larger species, such as jays and mourning doves.</li>
</ul>
<h4>How to Roast Sunflower Seeds</h4>
<p>Re-soak seeds overnight in salted water. Run through a strainer and dry on a layer of paper towels.</p>
<p>Bake for 25 to 30 minutes at 325 degrees on a baking sheet. Seeds should be spread out in a single layer. Stir frequently during the baking and remove seeds when they look slightly browned. Don’t burn! </p>
<p>That’s it! You can all some olive oil, salt, spices to your roasted seeds if you wish. </p>
<p>Or, you can also make suet cakes for the winter birds! <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/homemade-bird-food-recipe-suet">See how to make suet</a>.</p>
<p> </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/sunflowers">https://www.almanac.com/plant/sunflowers</a></p>
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</div> Three Easy Roses To Grow For Beginnerstag:templeilluminatus.ning.com,2023-04-19:6363372:Topic:36340292023-04-19T16:31:50.069ZArachnifaunahttps://templeilluminatus.ning.com/profile/Arachnifauna
<div class="Author_Line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodebloguid"><div class="block__content"><span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/author/doreen-g-howard" hreflang="en">Doreen G. Howard</a></span></div>
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<div class="date_line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeblogchanged"><div class="block__content"><div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item">April 4, 2023…</div>
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<div class="Author_Line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodebloguid"><div class="block__content"><span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/author/doreen-g-howard" hreflang="en">Doreen G. Howard</a></span></div>
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<div class="date_line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeblogchanged"><div class="block__content"><div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item">April 4, 2023</div>
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<div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item"><p>What are the easiest roses to grow, especially for a beginner? Here are three types of roses that have proven themselves to be disease-resistant, easy-care, and long-blooming: 1) a ground cover rose, 2) a shrub rose, and 3) a climbing rose. See which type of rose fits you and your landscape!</p>
<p>For background, roses were traditionally very demanding and prone to many diseases, requiring lots of tender loving care. Famous rose breeders have bred disease out of this garden classic—without sacrificing the unrivaled beauty and form that make a rose a rose. Today’s roses have the same beauty we all cherish along with improved hardiness and disease resistance as well as extended bloom times. Put away the sprays; stop the fancy pruning; ditch the finicky divas. Just plant and savor these carefree roses year after year!</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11030233675?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11030233675?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<h3>Flower Carpet Roses</h3>
<p>Enter the<span> </span><a href="http://tesselaar.com/plants/flower-carpet-roses" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Flower Carpet® Rose</a>, the world’s number one ground cover rose. I love its versatile, compact size—about 2 feet tall and 3 feet wide. I plant these ground cover roses in beds and borders, but they also grow fabulously in containers. Their dense, glossy, green leaves look wonderful even before the colorful roses begin to bloom with a good, mounded shape. </p>
<p>Planted en masse, they are useful on slopes to control erosion (no mowing!), as hedges around driveways (less edging!), as ground cover along sidewalks (instead of thirsty turf), and along walkways to soften up hardscape.</p>
<p><span>Flower Carpet roses are especially known for a lengthy, prolific bloom from spring to late autumn—10 months in warmer climates! This rose is dripping in blossoms—up to 2,000 flowers per plant! They bloom in both full sun as well as partial sun. In partial sun (2 to 3 hours per day), they just produce fewer flowers than when in full sun. </span></p>
<p>The foliage is resistant to common rose diseases (such as mildew and black spot), which means not only no spraying for you—but also no chemicals or pesticide for your garden. This plant also has a unique double root system (with deep roots as well as soil-surface ones), so it can also tolerate high heat, drought, and humidity. Surface roots take up available surface water while deeper roots access lower-level water in drought conditions.</p>
<p>Finally, there’s no fancy pruning. A simple cut-back (by one-third) each spring, a good mulching, fertilizer, and watering are all it takes to keep them blooming all summer long! Pruning is optional. If you do not have time or resources to do it, the roses will still flower profusely on a slightly larger bush.</p>
<p>Plus, Flower Carpet roses are incredibly adaptable. Plant in any season (spring, summer, or fall) in Zones 4 to 11. </p>
<p>It’s not surprising that Flower Carpet roses have received over 25 Gold and International Rose Awards. It’s hard to pick a favorite color! <a href="http://tesselaar.com/plants/flower-carpet-roses/" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><strong>See 12 different rose varieties.</strong></a></p>
<p><strong><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11030234854?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11030234854?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></strong></p>
<h3>Knock Out Roses</h3>
<p>Everyone knows the popular Knock Out® Rose, the traditional large shrub rose which grows about 4 feet tall and blooms in late spring and summer. As with most shrubs, Knock Out Roses look best as a border or along a fence, wall, or foundation. If you plant within a garden landscape, I’d suggest planting in groups of three.</p>
<p>Knock Out Roses really do their best with 6 to 8 hours of full sun every day if you want constant flowers. They grow in Zones 5 to 10, so they’re a little more hardy in cold climates. This is important, as I can attest to having lost dozens of hybrid teas to -25ºF winters, no matter how much mulch I had heaped upon the plants. It’s also disease-resistant and stands up to heat, humidity, and the myriad diseases spawned by hot climates. I know this first-hand because I’ve lived and grown roses in places from the Gulf Coast to Wisconsin. No spraying and no dusting.</p>
<p>They also claim to be “no pruning,” but left unpruned, Knock Out roses can reach 8 feet tall. This is not beneficial, and the flowers will be less bold and healthy. I’d recommend pruning these shrubs, but not starting in their second season; cut back in early spring by as much as one-half after the last threat of frost has passed. </p>
<p>Note: This rose does lose its leaves in winter, unlike the Flower Carpet® leaves, which change to a purple bronze color and remain on the plant until late in winter, leaving as little as two months of bare canes.</p>
<p>As well as the original Knock Out Rose, there is a Double Knock Out Rose which has full double flowers. To me, they’re prettier though smaller in size. While Knock Outs® aren’t supposed to need deadheading, I’d say the “Double” version really benefits to look its best. <a href="https://www.knockoutroses.com/" target="_blank" rel="noopener">See the Knock Out® Family of Roses</a>.</p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11030235494?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11030235494?profile=RESIZE_710x" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<h3>David Austin Climbing Roses</h3>
<p>Then, there are some superb<span> </span><strong>climbing roses</strong>. Unlike many climbing roses, the English Rose Climbers by David Austin® repeat flowering blooms with exceptional continuity and are clothed in blooms from the ground upward. As a group, they don’t grow too tall, making them easy to manage and the perfect height for appreciating the beauty and fragrance of their blooms.</p>
<p>I love David Austin roses; he and his family have bred the most beautiful rich scents of old varieties in a modern rose. When he started, very few modern roses had any fragrance.</p>
<p>An English climbing rose called ‘The Generous Gardener’ is one of the most fragrant, with glowing pale pink flowers and a scent of Old Rose, musk, and myrrh. It’s suitable for Zones 4 to 11 and climbs to 15 feet—perfect for a wall, fence, large arch, or pergola.</p>
<p>Another rose that I’ve added to my home is the romantic ‘Claire Austin’, a medium climber which grows to about 12 feet with gorgeous, creamy white flowers. It’s also very fragrant, with strong myrrh and dashes of meadowsweet, vanilla, and heliotrope scents. It’s perfect against the side of your home or near the doorway, taking up little room on the ground. <span> </span><a href="https://www.davidaustinroses.com/collections/climbing-roses" target="_blank" rel="noopener">See more climbing roses from David Austin</a>.</p>
<h3>Bare-Root or Container Roses?</h3>
<p>All of these easy-care roses come in two types: (1) bare-root and (2) container-grown. There are pros and cons to which type you buy:</p>
<p><strong>(1) Bare-root roses.</strong> Bare-root roses are not in soil (hence, “bare”) and are packed to prevent the roots from drying out. Bare-root plants are usually good-quality, having a wider root spread than container plants, and they are often of good value. They should be planted as soon as received or, if ground conditions are unsuitable, unpacked and kept in a container of slightly moist compost and planted as soon as conditions allow.</p>
<p>Plant bare-root roses in late autumn at leaf fall and from late winter to early spring, before growth resumes. Avoid planting in the middle of winter, when the ground is frozen.</p>
<p>Soak bare-root roses in a bucket of warm water overnight. Then dig a hole 18 inches wide and deep. Mix in compost if your soil is hard and compacted. In the center of the hole, make a 12-inch-high cone of dirt. Spread the rose roots over the cone. Hold the rose in place with one hand and fill in the hole with the other. Firm soil and water well.</p>
<p><strong>(2) Container-grown roses.</strong> These are roses that have been grown in containers for a whole growing season or more. They can be more costly, but then again they are available year-round. And you can plant all year ‘round, provided that the ground is neither frozen nor very dry. If you live in southern regions, container roses are a great choice because your ground and air temperatures are warmer.</p>
<p>Dig a hole the depth of the rose pot and 18 inches wide. Remove the plant from the pot, place it in center of the hole, spread the roots, and fill in with soil. Water well and firm the soil with the back of a shovel or your hands to eliminate air pockets. Scatter slow-release fertilizer formulated for roses around the plants and scratch in with a cultivator.</p>
<h2>5 Rose Tips That Really Work</h2>
<ol>
<li>Plant lavender at the base of rose bushes, especially the larger shrubs. Deer are attracted by rose scent, but lavender muddies the rose aroma.</li>
<li>Dump coffee grounds and used tea leaves around bushes. Both acidify the soil slightly, which roses love.</li>
<li>Bury banana skins or even the entire black, mushy banana at the base of bushes to provide magnesium, an element that the plants crave.</li>
<li>Scratch 2 tablespoons of Epsom salts into the soil around a rose. The salts make flower colors more intense.</li>
<li>Use rabbit food for fertilizer. The pet food is composed of alfalfa meal, which supplies a growth stimulant, nitrogen, and trace elements to roses. Scratch in ½ cup of pellets around each rose and water well.</li>
</ol>
<p>I just love all of these carefree roses, and hope that you do, too! Whether you’re looking for a more compact groundcover rose, a shrub, or a climber, you have choices to fit your garden and landscape needs. All of these roses are fantastic bloomers and don’t need any spraying so you can practically forget about them. Everything’s coming up roses!</p>
<p><a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/roses">See the Almanac’s complete Rose Growing Guide</a><span> </span>for excellent planting and rose care tips.</p>
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<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.almanac.com/easiest-roses-grow-beginners">https://www.almanac.com/easiest-roses-grow-beginners</a></p>
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</div> 10 THINGS TO CONSIDER WHEN BALCONY GARDENINGtag:templeilluminatus.ning.com,2023-04-16:6363372:Topic:36336052023-04-16T13:58:32.895ZArachnifaunahttps://templeilluminatus.ning.com/profile/Arachnifauna
<div class="layout layout--onecol"><div class="layout__region layout__region--content"><div class="block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeblogfield-subhead"><div class="block__content"><div class="field field--name-field-subhead field--type-string field--label-visually_hidden"><div class="field__item"><h2>What Can I Grow on a Terrace, Balcony, or Rooftop?…</h2>
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<div class="layout layout--onecol"><div class="layout__region layout__region--content"><div class="block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeblogfield-subhead"><div class="block__content"><div class="field field--name-field-subhead field--type-string field--label-visually_hidden"><div class="field__item"><h2>What Can I Grow on a Terrace, Balcony, or Rooftop?</h2>
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<div class="layout layout--twocol-section layout--twocol-section--50-50"><div class="layout__region layout__region--first"><div class="Author_Line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodebloguid"><div class="block__content"><a href="https://www.almanac.com/author/robin-sweetser">Robin Sweetser</a></div>
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<div class="date_line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeblogchanged"><div class="block__content"><div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item">March 23, 2023</div>
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<div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item"> <a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11028847679?profile=RESIZE_1200x"><img class="align-center" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11028847679?profile=RESIZE_710x" alt="11028847679?profile=RESIZE_710x" width="710"/></a></div>
<div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item">How do you start a garden in an apartment or condo without a proper yard? If you have access to a balcony, rooftop, terrace, or patio, you can still grow a wide range of veggies, herbs, perennials, flowers, and vines in containers! Here are 10 things to think about when diving into balcony gardening.</div>
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<div class="field field--name-changed field--type-changed field--label-hidden field__item"><h3>10 Things to Consider When Balcony or Rooftop Gardening</h3>
<p><strong>1.</strong> <strong>If you live in an apartment building or condo, does your building allow it</strong>? Before you begin, be sure to check the rules for your building. Some buildings don’t allow any plants on balconies or only allow flowers (as vegetables may attract birds or pests).</p>
<p><strong>2. Can your balcony or rooftop take the added weight of pots full of soil</strong>? Terra cotta and ceramic pots are heavy, so you might need to use rice pots, plastic or fiberglass containers, or fabric grow bags combined with lightweight soil mixes.</p>
<p><strong>3. How will you get water to your plants? </strong>If you are growing on a rooftop, it is a long way to be lugging jugs of water! You might want to consider drip irrigation or self-watering pots. You can also invest in a watering can that is easy to fill from the bathtub. Will excess water from your plants rain down on neighbors below? Be courteous and put saucers or trays under your plants to collect the overflow.</p>
<p><strong>4. What are the best plants to grow on a balcony or terrace?</strong> Choosing the right plants for your site is most important. Don’t waste space on something that is not going to thrive. The amount of sunlight is the most critical question.</p>
<ul>
<li>Does your balcony face south and receive <span class="caps">DIRECT</span> sun all day long? Cacti, many flowers and most vegetables—if kept well-watered—will love it there. </li>
<li>If your balcony faces north or is shaded by other buildings for most of the day, look to low-light plants such as <a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/coleus">coleus</a>, ferns, <a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/impatiens">impatiens</a>, <a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/hostas">hostas</a>, and begonias.</li>
<li>Some greens like <a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/swiss-chard">chard</a>, <a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/spinach">spinach</a>, or <a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/lettuce">lettuce</a> can grow with less than a half day of sun. Some herbs manage, too, which is great for culinary uses! </li>
</ul>
<p>Many people overestimate the amount of sun they get. Keep in mind that most veggies need a minimum of 6 to 8 hours of sun a day to really grow well and produce!</p>
<p><strong>5. Is your balcony or terrace windy?</strong> Be aware of any extreme conditions. The higher up you are, the more wind you are likely to have, and hot drying winds can quickly parch your plants. Get double-duty from a lattice or wire trellis that can block prevailing winds while providing support for climbing vines, too. It will also add a touch of privacy. Since wind is drying, you really have to stay on top of watering. Look into self-watering pots.</p>
<p>Some of your houseplants might appreciate an outdoor summer vacation. Expose them gradually to their new location to avoid sun and wind burn on the leaves.</p>
<p><strong>6.</strong> <strong>How hot is your balcony or rooftop? </strong>Without the sun reflecting from windows, heat tends to be an issue. Lettuce would simply wilt. If heat is an issue, maybe go exotic with tropical plants! Just one pot of <a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/elephant-ears">alocasia</a>, banana, or <a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/cannas">canna</a> can impart a jungle feel to the space. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/top-succulent-plants-home">Succulents will thrive</a>! Think of your balcony as a tiny outdoor room. If you have space, add a table and chairs and enjoy sitting among the greenery. If your location is too noisy, a burbling fountain or some wind chimes may help add a bit of soothing sound to the background noise.</p>
<p><strong>7. How big is your space?</strong> If it’s small, we would suggest starting small. Yes, you can eventually think of <a href="https://www.almanac.com/vertical-gardening">vertical gardening</a>, but a beginner should start with a few pots. You need to get a sense of how much time you have to garden and not overdo it. Arrange beds and larger containers around the outside edges to define the space and spread out the load. Make use of wall space to hang half-baskets and wall pockets.</p>
<p><strong>8.</strong> <strong>Do you want to grow edibles? </strong>You probably won’t be able to grow enough food to meet all your needs, but some pole beans, a pot of lettuce, cherry tomatoes, and a pepper plant or two will give you a fresh taste of summer. Be sure they are located in your brightest spots. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/container-gardening-vegetables">Learn more about container gardening with vegetables</a>.</p>
<p><strong>9. Do you have time to care for your plants?</strong> Maintenance is important in a small garden. When plant are in containers instead of the earth, they need to be watered more often. This is another reason to consider self-watering pots or drip irrigation. Fertilize, deadhead, and pinch back leggy plants to keep them in bounds and encourage bushiness. Be sure vegetables get picked when they ripen to keep the plants productive.</p>
<p><strong>10.</strong> <strong>Do you have the budget? </strong>Be careful not to just buy ready-grown plants unless you want to spend a fortune. Try finding pots at yard sales. Buy seeds or ask friends to share seeds. Get discarded seed flats from nurseries. Turn coffee tins into cute containers (poking holes in the bottom). The only thing you need to truly spend good money on is quality potting soil. Regular “dirt” is not sterile and brings disease and problems. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/how-make-your-own-potting-soil">Learn how to make your own potting soil</a>.</p>
<h4>More Small-Space Gardening Ideas</h4>
<p>Don’t forget a container or hanging basket filled with your favorite herbs. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/video/easiest-ever-gardening-container">See how to make a container gardening planter</a>!</p>
<p>Even a window box, if well-planned, can still make a big impression. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/best-flowers-window-boxes">See our best plants and flowers for window boxes</a>!</p>
<p>Start small and see how tending those plants fits into your schedule; you can always add more. Limited space and time can be challenging but a bit of planning this winter will go a long way toward making your tiny garden a big success next summer. </p>
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<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.almanac.com/10-tips-starting-balcony-garden">https://www.almanac.com/10-tips-starting-balcony-garden</a></p>
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</div> Growing Edible Flowers in Your Gardentag:templeilluminatus.ning.com,2023-04-13:6363372:Topic:36329992023-04-13T15:13:34.551ZArachnifaunahttps://templeilluminatus.ning.com/profile/Arachnifauna
<p>So many flowers are not only beautiful but also completely edible, adding color and flavor to salads, soups, pastas, drinks, and desserts. In fact, in ancient times, flowers were grown more for scent and flavor than looks alone. Here are <strong>15 edible flowers</strong> that are also easy to grow.</p>
<p>For centuries, humans have foraged or cultivated flowers and flower buds for food, drink, and medicine. Think of squash blossoms in Italian food, chamomile or jasmine tea, and rose petals…</p>
<p>So many flowers are not only beautiful but also completely edible, adding color and flavor to salads, soups, pastas, drinks, and desserts. In fact, in ancient times, flowers were grown more for scent and flavor than looks alone. Here are <strong>15 edible flowers</strong> that are also easy to grow.</p>
<p>For centuries, humans have foraged or cultivated flowers and flower buds for food, drink, and medicine. Think of squash blossoms in Italian food, chamomile or jasmine tea, and rose petals in Indian food. Some are spicy, and some herb-y, some are fragrant. All are colorful.</p>
<h3>Flowers You Can Eat</h3>
<p>We’re seeing a renewed interest in edible flowers. There are hundreds of common wild and cultivated plants with petals and buds which are edible. Not only are these flowers pretty in the garden, but they will add color, diversity, and new flavor to your meals.</p>
<p>If you’d like to grow some flowers, why not choose varieties that are also edible? Then dress up your dishes with buds and flowers. Try pansies in a salad, nasturtiums over pasta or in sandwiches! Adventurous folks might also want to explore some of the traditional medicinal uses of common flowers.</p>
<p>When preparing most flowers (exceptions: squash, violets, and nasturtiums) for food or beverage, use only the petals for best flavor. Remove the sepals, as well as the pistils and stamens. In case you’ve forgotten your flower anatomy, <a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-CZcZnkbSkto/T9OfFsr8Z1I/AAAAAAAApkw/d4vSJPGPeJw/s1600/flower_parts.jpg">here’s help</a>. </p>
<h3>15 Flowers You Can Eat!</h3>
<p>Looking to grow your own edible flowers? While there are hundreds of choices, here are 15 of our favorites.</p>
<h3>1. Nasturtium </h3>
<p>Nasturtium sits at the top of my list. It’s easy to grow from seed, indoors or out, and every above-ground part is edible. They can be sown as seeds or bought as bedding plants in the spring. Some believe that they help keep the cucumber beetle away so I sow mine right in the same beds with the cukes. Tying the cucumbers up a fence the nasturtiums can flow around their feet on the ground. <a href="http://www.almanac.com/plant/nasturtium">See how to grow nasturtium</a>.</p>
<p>Upon tasting nasturtium, you first taste a sweet essence from the nectar, followed by a bold peppery tang. Throw them in whole or turn to pieces to a salad or other dish. Nasturtium leaves and flowers are rich in antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compounds, and have a long history of medicinal use in indigenous cultures for urinary-tract, cardiovascular, and respiratory disorders. </p>
<h3>2. Violas</h3>
<p> <a href="https://www.almanac.com/blog/natural-health-home-tips/don%E2%80%99t-shrink-violets">I’ve already written</a> about my love of the irrepressible wild violets (<em>Viola sororia</em> or <em>Viola odorata</em>) that pop up all over my lawns and gardens. Give it a read, and tend your lawn violets with care! Violas and Pansies are perennials which also belong to the genus Viola but often treated as annual plants. These happy-faced flowers are among the first to get planted in the spring. <a href="http://www.almanac.com/plant/pansies">See how to grow pansies</a>.</p>
<p>All violas and their leaves are both edible and medicinal. They can be crystalized, used in syrups, and in baking. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/recipe/violet-infusion-jelly">See our recipe for violet flower infused jelly</a>!</p>
<h3>3. Calendula</h3>
<p>These daisy-like annual flowers come in yellows and oranges with tan and soft pink varieties available. <a href="http://www.almanac.com/news/gardening/gardening-advice/growing-calendula-how-grow-pot-marigold">See how to grow calendula</a>. Calendula petals will add color and spice to just about any cooked or fresh dish.</p>
<p>They can be added to a dish whole or the petals can be carefully removed and tossed into salads, stir-fries, or your favorite rice dishes for a peppery flavor. The flowers can be used in place of saffron to impart a golden yellow hue to dishes, even bread rolls. They are also easy to dry. Pull the petals and put them on a cookie tray.</p>
<p>Leave this in a very dry spot; the top of a warm closet, an attic or an oven with a pilot light. After a couple of days, they can be collected and put in a sealed jar for storage.</p>
<p>Calendulas are also known for their healing properties. You’ll find calendula listed as an ingredient in many high-end skincare products and healing creams. Here’s a nice recipe for <strong>homemade calendula oil or cream</strong>: Pull the petals from enough dried or fresh calendula blossoms to give you a cup. Add petals to 200 ml (about 1 cup) of olive oil in a large glass jar with a lid; seal and leave in a sunny window or outside for a week or two. After straining out the petals, you can use the oil as is, or heat it in a double boiler with ¼ cup of melted beeswax to make a spreadable cream.</p>
<h3>4. Marigolds</h3>
<p>Some marigolds are edible, too. There is a series called “gems” that are just delightful. ‘Lemon Gem’ is bright yellow while ‘Tangerine Gem’ is a lovely orange. They don’t have a lot of taste but dress up a dish with pizzaz. The plants also, when rubbed, give off a lemony scent that is a delightful aroma when wandering in the garden.</p>
<p>I plant my marigolds as a companion plant around broccoli, Brussel’s sprouts, and cabbage to help deter the cabbage moth. <a href="http://www.almanac.com/plant/marigolds">See how to plant marigolds</a>.</p>
<p>Many small edible flowers such as violas and marigolds can be added to ice cubes for a cocktail, event, and just because! Fill the tray half-way, add flower, and add a few drops of water. Freeze over night, and then fill ice trays completely to freeze overnight again.</p>
<h3>5. Chives</h3>
<p>Chives with their delicate purple flower can also be added to the list. These are very spicy and might be best utilized pulled apart and used judiciously like a spice. They can also be made into chive vinegar. Put the flowers into a clear jar with organic vinegar and leave in the Sun for a couple of weeks. Strain out the buds and keep in a sealed jar in the pantry. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/chives">See how to grow chives</a>.</p>
<h3>6. Roses </h3>
<p>All roses are edible. The more aromatic the rose, the more flavor it will have. <em>Rosa rugosa</em> is probably the most common edible rose. Harvest roses early in the day. To encourage more blooms, cut flowers at a 45-degree angle down to the lowest, outward-facing blossoms. To use roses, gently pull the petals off the flower and cut off the whitish base. <a href="http://www.almanac.com/plant/roses">See how to grow roses</a>.</p>
<p>Strew rose petals across a fresh salad, brew them into tea, or use the entire blossoms to decorate a cake. The petals can also be made into jam. In autumn, you can make rose hip syrup.</p>
<h3>7. Sunflowers</h3>
<p>Carefully separate the petals and sprinkle them into salads. For a real treat, harvest the unopened buds, remove the sepals, and steam the buds until tender. Meaty and filling, they taste like artichoke. Mmmm! <a href="http://www.almanac.com/plant/sunflowers">See how to grow sunflowers</a>.</p>
<h3>8. Chamomile</h3>
<p>Dating back at least 2000 years to the ancient Egyptians, people have used dried chamomile flowers for medicine, cosmetics, and perfumes.</p>
<p>Dried or fresh, chamomile tea is renowned as a safe and gentle calming and sleep-promoting agent. It’s readily available in stores (buy flowers in bulk), and easy to grow in the home garden. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/news/natural-health-home-tips/brew-yourself-cup-chamomile">Read more about chamomile tea and healing</a>.</p>
<h3>9. Hibiscus</h3>
<p>Try making your own hibiscus syrup for cocktails! The flowers are proven to lower blood pressure if used in tea. The calcyx of the Roselle variety makes an especially wonderful tea (or jelly due to the high pectin content of the flowers). The flavor is tart and zingy and the color is a vibrant cranberry. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/hibiscus">See how to grow hibiscus flowers</a>.</p>
<h3>10. Scented Geraniums</h3>
<p>Both the flowers and the leaves of scented geraniums are completely edible. Not only are they pretty but they add a fine aroma to salads, meat dishes, and desserts. the aroma depends on the scent! For example, lemon-scented geraniums add a lemon zest to salads and sorbet. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/how-grow-scented-geraniums">See how to grow scented geraniums</a>.</p>
<h3>11. Fennel</h3>
<p>All parts of the fennel plant are edible. It’s a very tall plant in the carrot family with an umbel type flower similar to dill, coriander, and caraway.</p>
<p>Fennels flower heads contribute a delicious licorice flavor to any dish. Sprinkle over potato salad. Even a small bit of fennel flower adds an anise flavor to stews, sauces, soups and meat rubs. Of course, the bulbs can be eaten raw, broiled or pickled. The seeds are commonly used as an after-dinner digestive aid in some countries.</p>
<h3>12. Daylily</h3>
<p>Daylilies are a popular staple in Asian cuisine. Every part of the daylily plant is edible: you can pluck the young shoots, boil the tubers like potatoes, or spruce up your salads with its bright orange petals. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/daylilies">See how to grow daylilies</a>.</p>
<p>Harvested fresh, I like to sauté the plump buds and meaty flowers in a little oil or butter, then season with salt and pepper. Some people stuff the just-opened blossom with a favorite stuffing mix, then saute the stuffed flowers in a little oil or poach them in broth. Use only freshly harvested buds/flowers. The flowers are wonderful in stir-fries! (<strong>Note:</strong> The day “lily” is not related to other types of lilies. Most other lilies are in fact <span class="caps">NOT</span> edible.)</p>
<h3>13. Dandelions</h3>
<p>Let’s not forget about dandelions! In early spring, young dandelion leaves are particularly delicious when they are underground and just about to emerge. These can be washed carefully and steamed for a few minutes. Serve with salt and butter. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/dandelion-recipes-wonderful-edible-weed">See dandelion recipes</a> for cooking dandelion greens, making dandelion wine, canning dandelion jelly, and even frying the dandelion blossoms .</p>
<h3>14. Borage</h3>
<p>Borage is one of our favorite herbs to grow. Both the blue flowers and the young leaves (the older ones get too hairy) are edible, lending a cucumber-like flavor to salads and soups. The flowers are also wonderful in a summer drink.</p>
<p>Also, borage is an excellent companion in the vegetable garden bed as it deters pests and attracts beneficials to pollinate your veggies!</p>
<h3>15. Squash Blossoms</h3>
<p>Squash blossoms are edible, especially right as they drop. Just Google “squash blossoms” and you’ll see all the recipes! They’re most commony dipped in light batters and fried or stuffed with cheesy fillings, dusted with flour and fried or used as a garnish. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/recipe/squash-flowers-and-eggs-lamanna">Here’s an easy recipe with squash blossoms and eggs</a>.</p>
<p>Zucchini and summer squash are, of course, incredibly prolific. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/squash-and-zucchini">Learn more about growing zucchini</a>.</p>
<p>Squash blossoms aren’t the only vegetable flower that’s edible. For example, all brassica flowers are edible (cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts, broccoli, radish, arugula). However, the flowers of the Nightshade family are <span class="caps">NOT</span> edible, including flowers of tomato, potato, eggplant, and pepper (capsicum). Asparagus flowers (and berries) are also toxic.</p>
<div class="youtube-container"><h3>Edible Herbs</h3>
<p>Keep in mind that the blossoms of many herbs are edible, and usually taste like a milder version of the leaf. Add rosemary flowers to butter! Sprinkle chive flowers on potato salad. Add lemon verbena to lemonade or sparkling water. Below are 10 herbs to try and here’s <a href="https://www.almanac.com/gardening/growing-guides#Herb">how to grow herbs</a>.</p>
<ol>
<li>Oregano/Marjoram</li>
<li>Mint</li>
<li>Chive</li>
<li>Cilantro</li>
<li>Lemon verbena</li>
<li>Thyme</li>
<li>Rosemary</li>
<li>Basil</li>
<li>Sage</li>
<li>Wild garlic flowers</li>
</ol>
<h3>Invasive/Non-Native Edible Flowers</h3>
<p>Keep in mind that many of the invasive plants in your yard are edible, too! Feed two birds with one stone by removing these plants and eating them, too.</p>
<p>White clover (Trifolium repens) is especially enjoyable and tastes a little bit like green beans! Here are 10 invasives/non-natives that you may find in your yard or nearby woodlands. </p>
<ol>
<li>White Clover</li>
<li>Red Deadnettle</li>
<li>Dandelion*</li>
<li>Garlic Mustard</li>
<li>Forsythia</li>
<li>Creeping Charlie</li>
<li>Chickweed</li>
<li>Winter Bittercress</li>
<li>Little Bur Clover</li>
<li>Henbit</li>
</ol>
<p>*Yes, the common dandelion is a non-native and often invasive. If you’re concerned about foraging for dandelion blossoms because it’s bee food, this is not as big an issue as it’s been made out to be. Dandelions are actually not the best food for our native bees. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/best-flowers-bees">See best flowers to plant for bees</a>.</p>
<h3>Before You Go Picking … </h3>
<p>The right flower can be a lovely addition to a dish, but before you go picking, be aware of the following:</p>
<ul>
<li>Don’t eat commercially grown flowers or flowers that came from a florist; they could have been sprayed.</li>
<li>Don’t forage wild flowers on treated lawns or along roads or in any place that has been sprayed with pesticides or herbicides. </li>
<li>Never eat a flower you can’t identify with absolute certainty and know to be safe. Many flowers are not edible including sweet peas, hydrangeas, foxglove, columbines, oleander, rhododendrons, and delphiniums. See this <a href="https://whatscookingamerica.net/EdibleFlowers/EdibleFlowersMain.htm" target="_blank" rel="noopener">Edible Flowers Chart</a> to learn what’s safe.</li>
<li>There’s a great app called “<a href="https://www.inaturalist.org/pages/seek_app">Seek” by iNaturlist</a> to help with identification but always do more research to be 100% positive what parts are edible, whether you can eat it raw, different ways it may look, and poisonous lookalikes. Maybe start with dandelions and things you know and can’t mess up and go from there. Good luck!</li>
<li>Introduce a new edible flower or floral tea slowly and gradually, especially if you have a serious ragweed or other pollen allergy. On your first try, take a few deep sniffs, then only a bite or two.</li>
<li>Because flowers may contain powerful phytocompounds (which confer their healing virtues, as well as their flavors and colors), check with your healthcare professional before eating edible flowers if you’re pregnant or taking prescription drugs.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Now check out our beautiful video to see edible flowers and learn how to use them</strong>. </p>
<p><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/iMPHEEMDtx4?wmode=opaque" width="755" height="425" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
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</div> How to Plant, Grow, and Care for Lavendertag:templeilluminatus.ning.com,2023-03-21:6363372:Topic:36329062023-03-21T16:33:31.521ZArachnifaunahttps://templeilluminatus.ning.com/profile/Arachnifauna
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11000984061?profile=RESIZE_400x" target="_self"><img class="align-right" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11000984061?profile=RESIZE_400x" width="279"></img></a> Lovely lavender adds aroma and soft beauty to the garden—and also has culinary and medicinal uses. Best seeded indoors (in late winter), lavender is planted outdoors in early spring. Learn how to plant, keep lavender plants in shape, propagate, and harvest/dry the flowers.</p>
<p>The commonly-cultivated lavender is the common or English lavender <em>Lavandula…</em></p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11000984061?profile=RESIZE_400x" target="_self"><img class="align-right" src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/11000984061?profile=RESIZE_400x" width="279"/></a>Lovely lavender adds aroma and soft beauty to the garden—and also has culinary and medicinal uses. Best seeded indoors (in late winter), lavender is planted outdoors in early spring. Learn how to plant, keep lavender plants in shape, propagate, and harvest/dry the flowers.</p>
<p>The commonly-cultivated lavender is the common or English lavender <em>Lavandula angustifolia</em> (formerly named <em>L. officinalis</em>) which is hardy to <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/planting-zones-us-and-canada"><span class="caps">USDA</span> Zone 5</a>. A bushy perennial, lavender grows from 1 to 3 feet tall, bearing small blue-violet flowers on spikes with blue-green needle-like foliage. Its the oils in the flowers that give the herb its distinctive balsam-like fragrance.</p>
<p>Called “English” lavender because it proliferates in the English climate, this plant’s main requirements are lots of sun and good drainage. It is not fussy about soil, and its presence lures bees and <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/plants-attract-butterflies">butterflies</a> and <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/plants-attract-butterflies">pollinators</a> to the garden. Plant lavender along a walkway or near a seating area.</p>
<p>Interestingly, the name lavender comes from the Latin root<em> lavare</em>, which means “to wash” because it was used in baths to purify the body and spirit. Today, it’s often used in soaps and shampoos. </p>
<p>In addition, lavender has proven medicinal uses. When the essential oils are inhaled, lavender has calming properties that reduce anxiety; it’s also used as a gentle sedative for insomnia. In ancient times, lavender flowers were sewn into sachets to aide with sleeplessness.</p>
<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-body"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-body field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Lavender is even useful in the kitchen in baking and drink recipes! Learn more below.</p>
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<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-planting"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-planting field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">PLANTING</div>
<div class="field__item"><p>As mentioned above, lavender thrives in most soil qualities, from poor to moderately fertile. Lavender makes only one demand of soil: It must drain well. Standing water and wet areas could encourage root rot. Amend compacted or clay soil with compost or aged manure to improve drainage. Plant lavender in a spot that gets at least 6 to 8 hours of sunlight each day (“full sun”). </p>
<h4>When to Plant Lavender</h4>
<ul>
<li>Lavender is best planted as a young plant starting in the spring after the soil has warmed up to at least 60°F (15°C) and the threat of frost has passed.</li>
<li>If planting in the fall, choose larger, more established plants to ensure their survival through the winter.</li>
</ul>
<h4>How to Plant Lavender</h4>
<ul>
<li>Lavender isn’t easy to grow from seed; we recommend purchasing small starter plants from a garden nursery or taking a softwood cutting from an existing plant. Seeds may take up to three months to germinate and seedlings will need to be overwintered indoors in cool climates. </li>
<li>Plant lavender 2 to 3 feet apart. Plants typically reach between 1 and 3 feet in height.</li>
<li>Add mulch (rock or pea gravel work particularly well) to keep weeds to a minimum. Keep the mulch away from the crown of the lavender plant, however, to prevent excess moisture and root rot.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Check out this video to learn how to plant lavender:</strong></p>
<p><strong><iframe src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/LpJpO3Us-u8?wmode=opaque" width="755" height="425" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
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<div class="field__label">GROWING</div>
<div class="field__item"><h4>How to Care for Lavender</h4>
<ul>
<li>Water once or twice a week after planting until plants are established. Water mature plants every two to three weeks until buds form, then once or twice weekly until harvest. (Yellowing leaves are often a sign of overwatering.)</li>
<li>In colder growing areas, plants may need extra winter protection. Cover the plants with a winter <a href="https://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/mulching-guide-benefits-mulch">mulch</a> of evergreen boughs or straw, which will insulate from freezing winds and temperatures. <a href="https://www.almanac.com/lavender-winter-care">Read more about winter care of lavender plants</a>.<ul>
<li>Another option for cold areas is to grow lavender in a pot, keeping it outdoors in the summer and indoors in winter. While indoors, place the pot in a south-facing window with as much light as possible. Water sparingly, as the plant will be dormant at this time.</li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<h4>Pruning Lavender</h4>
<p><strong>In cooler climates:</strong> Prune established plants in spring when green leaves start to emerge from the base. Remove about one-third of the top to keep the plant from becoming leggy and bare at the base, but do not cut back into old wood, as it will not regrow.</p>
<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-care"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-care field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__item"><p><strong>In warm climates:</strong> All pruning can be carried out in autumn.</p>
<p>The flowering stems can be harvested while in bloom or snipped off after the flowers fade to keep the plant tidy.</p>
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<div class="field__item"><ul>
<li><strong>English lavender</strong><em> (Lavandula angustifolia)</em>, the most common, is hardy to <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/planting-zones-us-and-canada"><span class="caps">USDA</span> Zone 5</a>. Hundreds of varieties exist in many colors (white, pink, blue violet, and many shades of purple) and sizes. It often blooms twice in one season.<ul>
<li><strong>‘Hidcote’</strong>: deep purple flowers; silver-gray foliage; compact form</li>
<li><strong>‘Munstead’</strong>: violet-blue flowers; dark green foliage; compact form</li>
<li><strong>‘Miss Katherine’</strong>: deep pink flowers; aromatic foliage; mounding form</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Lavandins</strong> (<em>L. x intermedia</em>)—a hybrid of English and <strong>Portuguese lavender</strong> <em>(L. latifolia</em>)—are generally larger plants that bloom only once per year, later in the summer.<ul>
<li><strong>‘Phenomenal’</strong>: vigorous variety highly tolerant of heat and humidity; resistant to common root and foliar diseases; long flower spikes</li>
<li><strong>‘Provence’</strong>: vigorous, long-stem variety; very fragrant</li>
</ul>
</li>
<li><strong>Spanish lavender</strong> (<em>L. stoechas</em>) and <strong>French (fringed) lavender</strong> (<em>L. dentata</em>) are typically only winter-hardy in Zones 7 to 9.</li>
</ul>
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<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-harvest"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-harvest field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">HARVESTING</div>
<div class="field__item"><h4>How to Grow New Lavender From Cuttings</h4>
<ul>
<li>Cut following the plant’s bloom. Choose sideshoots for cuttings which have no buds.</li>
<li>Cut very low near the root, getting several inches of stem. Gently scrape the skin off the bottom portion of the stem on one side with a knife. Remove foliage on the bottom 2 inches of the stem.</li>
<li>Fill a small pot (4 inches or so) with potting mix. Optional: Dip each cutting in rooting hormone first.</li>
<li>Insert bare stem into potting soil. Firm the soil and water in. Cover the whole pot with a clear plastic or a polythene bag to create humidity. Place pots in a warm, shaded area.</li>
<li>Allow about 3 weeks for roots to appear. (If you tug tently, the root shouldn’t move.) Then remove the bag.</li>
<li>Water when soil is dry an inch down; feed with 1/4-strength liquid plant fertilizer once a week.</li>
<li>After a few weeks, transplant it into a larger pot.</li>
</ul>
<h4>Harvesting Lavender Flowers</h4>
<p>Lavender is a wonderful herb for drying. Here’s how to harvest it:</p>
<ul>
<li>Harvest in the morning hours when the oils are the most concentrated.</li>
<li>Snip off stems when about half of the flower buds have opened, cutting the stems as long as possible.</li>
<li>Gather into bundles and secure them with rubber bands.</li>
<li>Dry the bundles of lavender by hanging them in a sheltered, cool, dark place with good air circulation.</li>
<li>After a few weeks, the flowers will have dried fully and can be shaken gently from the stems into a lidded jar. Store the flowers in a cool, dark place.</li>
</ul>
<p>Use your dried lavender to make <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/how-make-lavender-sachets">lavender sachets</a>—a lovely gift. Lavender sachets can help to keep your sheets or towels smelling sweet, to repel moths and insects, and even promote a restful night’s sleep. </p>
<h4>Storing Lavender</h4>
<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-harvest"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-harvest field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__item"><p>Store lavender flowers in a lidded jar somewhere cool and dark, or pop them straight into a sachet to keep towels, sheets or clothes smelling sweet and to repel moths. If you suffer from insomnia, try inserting the sachets into a pillow so the calming scent can help you drift off to a restful slumber.</p>
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<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-wit-and-wisdom"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-wit-and-wisdom field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">WIT AND WISDOM</div>
<div class="field__item"><ul>
<li>Ancient Egyptians used lavender in the embalming process. They wrapped the dead in shrouds that had been soaked in lavender water.</li>
<li>The Romans, all the way back in <span class="caps">A.D.</span> 77, are documented to have used lavender to repel insects and soothe insect bites. Add a lavender sachet to your towels, sheets, or cloths to repel moths.</li>
<li>The herb is also known for its calming effects. If you suffer from insomnia, try slipping a lavender sachet into your pillow. Lavender oil is used to naturally induce sleep.</li>
</ul>
<p> </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/lavender">https://www.almanac.com/plant/lavender</a></p>
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</div> Shamrocks and Four-Leaf Clovers: What's the Difference?tag:templeilluminatus.ning.com,2023-03-17:6363372:Topic:36326072023-03-17T12:49:11.539ZArachnifaunahttps://templeilluminatus.ning.com/profile/Arachnifauna
<div class="layout layout--onecol"><div class="layout__region layout__region--content"><div class="block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeblogfield-subhead"><div class="block__content"><div class="field field--name-field-subhead field--type-string field--label-visually_hidden"><div class="field__item"><h2>Learn About the Symbol of Ireland and St. Patrick's Day!…</h2>
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<div class="layout layout--twocol-section layout--twocol-section--50-50"><div class="layout__region layout__region--first"><div class="Author_Line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodebloguid"><div class="block__content"><a href="https://www.almanac.com/author/robin-sweetser" hreflang="en">Robin Sweetser</a></div>
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<div class="date_line block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeblogcreated"><div class="block__content">February 9, 2023</div>
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<div class="block__content"><p>Many of us remember hunting for that elusive “four-leaf clover” as a child, and we’ve all seen that green shamrock on St. Patrick’s Day. That brings us to today’s garden musings. Let’s talk about what a shamrock really is—and what it isn’t!</p>
<h3>What Is a Shamrock?</h3>
<p>The shamrock is a symbol that we commonly associate with <a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/st-patricks-day">St. Patrick’s Day</a> and with Ireland. It can be seen all over St. Patrick’s Day decor, representing the rebirth of spring.</p>
<p>Sometimes, the shamrock is depicted as a four-leaf clover, but this isn’t quite accurate. Traditionally, a shamrock is a <strong>three-leaf clover</strong>. </p>
<p>Why three leaves and not four? According to legend, St. Patrick used a three-leaf shamrock to explain the Holy Trinity, with one leaf representing the Father, the Son, and the Holy Spirit, respectively. More recently, the four-leaf clover has also come to represent the Holy Trinity, with the fourth leaf symbolizing God’s Grace. </p>
<h4>The True Shamrock</h4>
<p>The word “shamrock” comes from the Irish word <em>Seamróg</em>, meaning “little clover” or “young clover,” but there isn’t a consensus on which species of clover is the “true” shamrock. In fact, there are a few plants that go by this nickname!</p>
<p>In Ireland, the plants that are most often associated with the name “shamrock” are the <strong>suckling clover </strong><em><strong>(Trifolium dubium)</strong> </em>and the <strong>white clover </strong><em><strong>(Trifolium repens)</strong></em>. Both clovers are native to Europe, but can be found throughout the world today. Their genus name, <em>Trifolium</em>, means “having three leaves”—an appropriate description!</p>
<p>According to Encyclopedia Britannica, a number of other similar-looking plants go by the name “shamrock”:</p>
<blockquote><p><strong>”</strong><a href="https://www.britannica.com/plant/shamrock"><strong>Shamrock</strong></a> [refers to] any of several similar-appearing trifoliate plants—i.e., plants each of whose leaves is divided into three leaflets. Plants called shamrock include the wood sorrel <em>(Oxalis acetosella)</em> of the family <em>Oxalidaceae</em>, or any of various plants of the pea family <em>(Fabaceae)</em>, including white clover <em>(Trifolium repens)</em>, suckling clover <em>(T. dubium)</em>, and black medic <em>(Medicago lupulina)</em>. Wood sorrel is shipped from Ireland to other countries in great quantity for St. Patrick’s Day.”</p>
</blockquote>
<p>As mentioned, “shamrock” can also refer to a plant called <strong>common wood sorrel</strong><em><strong> (Oxalis acetosella)</strong></em>. Wood sorrel looks very similar to clover, though the plants are not related. Tropical relatives of wood sorrel are often sold in stores as “shamrock” houseplants, since they’re better suited to the indoor environment than clover species are. </p>
<p><a href="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10998978461?profile=original" target="_blank" rel="noopener"><img src="https://storage.ning.com/topology/rest/1.0/file/get/10998978461?profile=RESIZE_710x" width="500" class="align-center"/></a></p>
<h3>How Rare Is a Four-Leaf Clover? Why Are They Lucky?</h3>
<p>As kids, we would spend hours searching for that lucky four-leaf clover—and often come home empty handed!</p>
<p>A four-leaf clover isn’t a special variety of clover; it’s just an unusual mutation of a three-leaf clover, but it’s a “lucky” symbol because it’s so hard to find. In fact, your chances of finding a four-leaf clover are 1 in 10,000! That’s where the luck comes in, apparently. According to popular lore, if you do find a four-leaf clover, giving it to someone else doubles your luck. </p>
<p>Traditionally, four leaves were considered lucky because they reflected the shape of a cross and were thought to be magical or sacred. Eve supposedly took a four-leaf clover with her when she was banished from the Garden of Eden, too.</p>
<p>In the Middle Ages, it was believed that carrying a four-leaf clover would enable you to see fairies, recognize witches and evil spirits, and be protected from the evil eye. Even dreaming of clover was supposed to bring good luck.</p>
<p>Superstitions aside, clover is valuable plant in many ways. Bees and other pollinators can’t resist its flowers (red clover is especially attractive to bumblebees), and the plants can be turned into the soil as green manure, too. Additionally, the roots host nitrogen-fixing bacteria that enrich the soil, and the plants are high-quality forage for many animals. The reasons to grow clover are endless!</p>
<h3>The Value of Clover</h3>
<p>In recent years, the idea of growing clover has been making a comeback. White clover <em>(Trifolium repens)</em> is well known for crowding out broadleaf weeds while growing harmoniously with grass. It will thrive in areas that are poorly drained or too shady for a conventional lawn, making it a great grass alternative.</p>
<p>As a legume, clovers have the ability to convert nitrogen into fertilizer using bacteria in its root system (a process called “nitrogen fixation”), practically eliminating the need for additional fertilization.</p>
<p>Despite today’s push for perfectly green lawns (which often involves a lot of chemicals), clover was not always viewed as a “weed.” The University of Minnesota Extension Service points out that, until relatively recently, it was standard practice to include clover seed in lawn seed mixes:</p>
<blockquote><p><em>“Until the 1950s, clover was included in lawn seed mixes, as it was regarded as a prestigious lawn plant. It may be considered an attractive, low-maintenance ground cover that is soft to walk on, mows well and will fill in thin spots in a yard.”</em></p>
</blockquote>
<p>Today, it seems clover is returning as a more eco-friendly lawn alternative. Since it is nitrogen fixating, it can supply its own nutrients to poor soil. Overseeding clover seed into your existing lawn is an easy way to establish a clover lawn. For lawns, the most popular is the white clover because it is relatively low growing, tolerates close mowing, and outcompetes weeds.</p>
<p><a href="https://www.almanac.com/content/clover-comeback">See more about growing a clover lawn</a>.</p>
<h3>The False Shamrock</h3>
<p>The last piece of the shamrock puzzle is a houseplant that also goes by the name “shamrock.” It usually crops up in grocery stores and nurseries around St. Patrick’s Day. This plant is not related to clover (the “true” shamrock), but is in the same genus as wood sorrel <em>(Oxalis)</em>.</p>
<p><em>Oxalis</em> are native to many regions of the world, but they’re most numerous in the tropics, which is where the houseplant species come from. Depending on the species, they can have green or purple leaves and white or pink flowers, and some cultivars, such as ‘Irish Mist’, have green leaves flecked with white. The whole plant is photophilic, meaning the leaves and flowers close up at night and open wide again in the morning.</p>
<p><em>Oxalis </em>can be grown outdoors in the spring and summer in Hardiness Zones 6 to 11, but they also make for great houseplants year-round. They like bright, indirect light and tend to bloom in fall, winter, or spring.</p>
<p>Since they are grown from bulbs, let them dry out a bit between waterings to prevent rot. Don’t fret if your indoor <em>Oxalis</em> loses all its leaves in summer. It isn’t dead. It just needs a dormant period, so let it dry out and put the pot in a dark place until it decides to resume growth in a few weeks. As soon as new leaves appear, bring it into the light and resume watering. These plants are low maintenance and long lived.</p>
<p>Here are a few of the more popular <em>Oxalis </em>houseplant species:</p>
<ul>
<li>Sometimes called <strong>False Shamrock</strong>, <em>Oxalis regnellii </em>are native to South America. Pictured above, they have heart-shaped leaves instead of the clover’s oval-shaped leaves.</li>
<li><strong>Purple Shamrock </strong>(<em>Oxalis triangularis</em>) is a subspecies of <em>O. regnellii</em> that hails from Brazil. It has large, handsome, purple leaves and pale lavender-pink flowers.</li>
<li><strong>Lucky Leaf</strong> or <strong>Lucky Clover</strong> (<em>Oxalis tetraphylla</em>) is also known as four-leaved sorrel. Native to Mexico, it has four split green leaves with a dark maroon eye. The trumpet-shaped flowers of ‘Alba’ are white, ‘Iron Cross’ has pink flowers. </li>
</ul>
<p><em>Oxalis</em> houseplants all contain oxalic acid, the same chemical that makes rhubarb leaves and daffodils toxic. If eaten in large quantities, they can be poisonous to pets and small children, so don’t go feeding the leaves to your pet rabbit! </p>
<p> </p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.almanac.com/clover-shamrocks-and-oxalis-whats-difference">https://www.almanac.com/clover-shamrocks-and-oxalis-whats-difference</a></p>
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</div> Swiss Chardtag:templeilluminatus.ning.com,2023-03-12:6363372:Topic:36321202023-03-12T15:11:54.511ZArachnifaunahttps://templeilluminatus.ning.com/profile/Arachnifauna
<h2>Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Swiss Chard</h2>
<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-body"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-body field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Learn how to grow Swiss chard—or simply “chard”—a member of the beet family. It does well in both cool and warm weather. It is a nutritional superfood, high in vitamins A, C, and K, as well as minerals,…</p>
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<h2>Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Swiss Chard</h2>
<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-body"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-body field--type-text-long field--label-hidden field__item"><p>Learn how to grow Swiss chard—or simply “chard”—a member of the beet family. It does well in both cool and warm weather. It is a nutritional superfood, high in vitamins A, C, and K, as well as minerals, phytonutrients, and fiber. Plus, its rainbow of colors is beautiful! See our chard growing guide for information from planting to harvesting.</p>
<h4>About Swiss Chard</h4>
<p>Similar to beets, both the stems and leaves of chard can be eaten cooked or raw. Swiss chard is prolific—leave plenty of room in the garden bed! It has a mild flavor, adding nutrition and color to salads, pastas, pizzas, quiches, sandwiches, and more.</p>
<p>Typically grown as a cool-season crop because it grows quickly and easily during the cooler temperatures of spring and fall, chard is quite tolerant of hotter temperatures, too. Its growth will slow down in summer, but chard’s higher heat tolerance makes it a great salad green to grow when it gets too hot out for the others.</p>
<p>Chard is a superfood, high in vitamins A, C, and K. It doesn’t have that bitter taste that a lot of other greens have, and it makes a good substitute for spinach or kale, if you’re not a fan of those superfoods. </p>
<p>On top of all its virtues as a garden vegetable, chard is a lovely edible ornamental plant, coming in many different colors to mix with landscaping or in containers. Why, you could even use chard in a vase or bouquet, mixed with flowers or on its own. Why should flowers have all the fun?</p>
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<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-planting"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-planting field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">PLANTING</div>
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<div class="field__label"><p>Chard will tolerate partial sun, but grows best in full sun. It prefers a location with moderately fertile, well-draining soil and a soil pH between 6.0 and 7.0 (slightly acidic to neutral). Before planting, mix aged manure and/or compost into the soil to boost soil fertility.</p>
<h4>When to Plant Swiss Chard</h4>
<ul>
<li>For the spring season, plant chard seeds 2 to 3 weeks before the<span> </span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates">last spring frost date</a>.</li>
<li>For a fall harvest, plant chard seeds about 40 days before the<span> </span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/gardening/frostdates">first fall frost date</a>. (Many varieties will tolerate a light frost.)</li>
<li>To speed germination, soak seeds in water for 24 hours prior to planting. </li>
</ul>
<h4>How to Plant Swiss Chard</h4>
<ul>
<li>When ready to plant, apply 5-10-10 fertilizer to the area.</li>
<li>Sow seeds 1/2 to 1 inch deep, 2 to 6 inches apart, in rows 18 inches apart.</li>
<li>Continue planting seeds at 10-day intervals for a month.</li>
</ul>
<div class="field__label">GROWING</div>
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<li>When plants are 3 to 4 inches tall, thin to 4 to 6 inches apart or 6 to 12 inches if plants are large.</li>
<li>Use scissors to avoid disturbing nearby plant roots. You can eat the cuttings.</li>
<li>Chard usually does just fine without the use of fertilizer, but if yours seems to be staying small, consider applying a balanced fertilizer halfway through the season.</li>
<li>Water evenly and consistently to help it grow better. Water plants often during dry spells in the summer.</li>
<li><a href="https://www.almanac.com/blog/gardening/garden-journal/mulching-guide-benefits-mulch">Mulch</a><span> </span>the plants to help conserve moisture and suppress weeds.</li>
<li>When plants are about 1 foot tall, cut leaves back to 3 to 5 inches to encourage new tender growth. If chard plants become overgrown, they become less flavorful. Eat what you cut back.</li>
</ul>
<p><strong>Check out this video to learn how to grow Swiss chard:</strong></p>
<p><iframe width="755" height="425" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/c2jyF7UsNW0?wmode=opaque" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
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<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield__recommended"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field__recommended field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">RECOMMENDED VARIETIES</div>
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<li><strong>‘Bright Lights’</strong>: Dark green leaves on multicolor stems; bolt resistant but less frost-hardy.</li>
<li><strong>‘Fordhook Giant’</strong>: Dark green leaves, white stems; compact plants.</li>
<li><strong>‘Lucullus’</strong>: Green leaves, white stems; heat-tolerant.</li>
<li><strong>‘Peppermint’</strong>: Green leaves, pink-and-white striped stems; bolt-resistant; good for containers.</li>
<li><strong>‘Rainbow’</strong>: Red, pink, white, yellow, orange, and striped leaves and stems.</li>
<li><strong>‘Rhubarb’</strong>: Dark green leaves, deep-red stems; sow after risk of frost has passed or it may bolt.</li>
<li><strong>‘Ruby Red’</strong>: Green leaves, bright-red stems; sow after risk of frost has passed or it may bolt.</li>
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<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-harvest"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-harvest field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">HARVESTING</div>
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<li>Begin to harvest when the plants are 6 to 8 inches tall, depending on which size leaves you desire.</li>
<li>Cut off outer leaves 1-1/2 inches above the ground with a sharp knife. Avoid damaging the plant’s center. Eat what you cut.</li>
<li>Harvest regularly, and the plants will produce continually. Use the “cut-and-come-again” harvesting technique, taking the largest, oldest leaves and leaving the young ones to continue growing. </li>
<li>To extend the harvest, lift the plant, with roots in the soil, and transfer to a container in a greenhouse. Maintain the temperature at around 50°F. Initially, the chard will appear limp, but it should rebound.</li>
</ul>
<h4>How to Store Swiss Chard</h4>
<ul>
<li>Rinse off Swiss chard leaves and store them in the refrigerator in ventilated plastic bags.</li>
<li>To use, draw a sharp knife along the ribs to separate the leaves.</li>
<li>The leaves are eaten as greens. You can cook them like<span> </span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/spinach">spinach</a><span> </span>or eat them raw.</li>
<li>You can cook the ribs like asparagus (steamed, roasted, sautéed).</li>
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<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-wit-and-wisdom"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-wit-and-wisdom field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">WIT AND WISDOM</div>
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<li>Swiss chard originated in—you guessed it—Mediterranean Europe! Oddly enough, chard is not native to Switzerland at all. According to legend, a Swiss botanist was responsible for determining chard’s scientific name and the “Swiss” just stuck!</li>
<li>Embrace your leafy greens! Learn more about the<span> </span><a href="https://www.almanac.com/blog/home-health/natural/leafy-greens-health-benefits">health benefits of going green</a>!</li>
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<div class="body-ad-wrapper block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-pests"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-pests field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">PESTS/DISEASES</div>
<div class="field__item"><div class="plant-table"><h4>Chard Pests and Diseases</h4>
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<thead><tr><th>Pest/Disease</th>
<th>Type</th>
<th>Symptoms</th>
<th>Control/Prevention</th>
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<tbody><tr><th><a href="https://www.almanac.com/pest/aphids">Aphids</a></th>
<td>Insect</td>
<td>Misshapen/yellow leaves; sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold</td>
<td>Grow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of dish soap (no additives) and water every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects</td>
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<tr><th>Cercospora leaf spot</th>
<td>Fungus</td>
<td>Many small brown spots with red-purple halos on leaves that enlarge and turn gray; centers of spots eventually fall out, leaving the halos</td>
<td>Destroy infected plants; weed; avoid overhead watering; ensure good air circulation; rotate crops</td>
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<tr><th><a href="https://www.almanac.com/pest/flea-beetles">Flea beetles</a></th>
<td>Insect</td>
<td>Numerous tiny holes in leaves</td>
<td>Use row covers; mulch heavily; add native plants to invite beneficial insects</td>
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<tr><th>Leaf miners</th>
<td>Insect</td>
<td>Meandering blisters in leaves caused by tunneling larvae</td>
<td>Remove infested leaves; weed; use row covers; till soil early in season; rotate crops</td>
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<tr><th><a href="https://www.almanac.com/pest/slugs-and-snails">Slugs/snails</a></th>
<td>Mollusk</td>
<td>Irregular holes in leaves; slimy secretion on plants/soil; seedlings “disappear”</td>
<td>Handpick; avoid thick bark mulch; use copper plant collars; avoid overhead watering; lay boards on soil in evening, and in morning dispose of “hiding” pests in hot, soapy water; drown in deep container filled with 1/2 inch of beer, or sugar water and yeast, and sunk so that top edge is slightly above ground; apply 1-inch-wide strip of food-grade diatomaceous earth as barrier</td>
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<div class="block block-layout-builder block-field-blocknodeplantfield-cooking-notes"><div class="block__content"><div class="text-content clearfix field field--name-field-cooking-notes field--type-text-long field--label-above"><div class="field__label">COOKING NOTES</div>
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<li>Chard can be used in salads to add color, in smoothies, in soups and stews, on pizzas, in sandwiches in place of lettuce, in quiches, and anywhere you use spinach or kale (especially if you dislike the latter).</li>
<li>Swiss chard holds it shape well when cooked and adds a nutritious boost.</li>
</ul>
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<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.almanac.com/plant/swiss-chard">https://www.almanac.com/plant/swiss-chard</a></p>
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